Homer’s sagacious Odysseus, prior to embarking upon the treacherous passage through the Messina Strait, heeds the counsel of the artful enchantress Circe. Venturing into the netherworld, he sought insights on the means to secure his homeward voyage. In our narrative, however, we’ve chosen to forgo such mystical sojourns. Armed with an arsenal of insights garnered from forums, an anthology of tales, scrutinized meteorological predictions, and meticulously updated cartography, our preparations delved into the intricacies of the forthcoming endeavor. An evening colloquium dissected the intricate plans, ensuring that every member of the crew comprehended the nuances of the impending crossing, anticipating the challenges at each stage. Multiple scenarios were meticulously considered, contingent upon the hurdles we might confront and the fidelity of meteorological prognostications. The navigator was programmed with the two most plausible crossing routes. As I retreated to my cabin for repose, the captain remained ensconced in internet research, a discernible veneer of anxiety clouding his countenance. Understandably so, for a daunting stretch lay ahead, and this would be his inaugural navigation through its waters. This unease proved infectious, permeating the entire crew. Despite the pre-reading and the evening’s discussions, tranquility eluded the realms of our dreams. At the early hour of five, the kettle’s soft hum heralded the inception of breakfast preparations. As the first vestiges of dawn caressed the horizon, we bade farewell to Etna and the coastal panorama of Taormina. At six in the morn, our vessel cast off its moorings, commencing its sojourn towards the point where the Italian boot delicately nudges its spherical counterpart—Sicily, the locale where Odysseus found himself perilously entwined amidst the menacing clutches of Scylla and the tumultuous vortex of Charybdis.
Homer’s Scylla, as described, boasted six toothed heads on sinuous necks, capable of, upon sudden emergence, ensnaring six sailors simultaneously within her ravenous maw. Conversely, Charybdis wielded whirlpools of such potency that they threatened to capsize entire vessels. Quite the riveting odyssey!
Our day’s nautical itinerary spans the segment highlighted in a vivid raspberry hue upon our maps. However, the endeavor shall demand almost twelve hours to navigate. Given the intricacies of the crossing, propulsion under motor power shall be our mode of transit.
Meeting the dawn on the way.
The most precarious segment looms, a narrow passage commencing around the city of Reggio Calabria. We maintain the closest possible proximity to the coastline, remaining within the sanctioned navigational corridor. Communications with the coastguard precede our ingress into the strait, securing the requisite permissions. Providentially, the weather augurs well once again—a crystalline day with impeccable visibility. While the wind proves robust, it exhibits a reassuring constancy rather than capricious gusts. Legato, maintaining a brisk pace in adherence to the planned route, weaves through the crystalline waters.
As anticipated, we contend with the shift in currents and the formidable whirlpools around the vicinity of Villa San Giovanni.
While our engine propels us at “full ahead,” upon encountering the current, our velocity precipitously drops from 7 to 3 knots. Progress becomes a languid affair, with occasional entanglements within the eddies of the whirlpools, causing the vessel to veer off course. Remarkably, the captain at the helm maintains an equanimous countenance.
What we hadn’t foreseen was a communication from the navigator, especially at the nascent phase of this most challenging strait.
It transpires that at the specified coordinates on the seabed, an unexploded ordnance lurks, posing a latent detonation hazard. A revelation that demands our traverse through this stretch with heightened circumspection. Thus unfolds an unexpected facet, akin to the tales of Scylla and her serrated incisors!
The auspicious tidings arrive as we successfully navigate the perils; the formidable Messina Strait lies behind us, and we now sail upon the cerulean expanse of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The nomenclature owes its origin to the settlers along its shores from Lydia, situated northwest of contemporary Turkey, circa the 12th century BCE. Prince Tyrrhen led these Lydians westward in pursuit of a new homeland following years of crop failure and famine. Landing on the western coast of the Apennine Peninsula, within the confines of the modern Italian province of Tuscany, they adopted the name Tyrrhenians. Subsequently referred to as Etruscans by the ancient Romans, they profoundly influenced the latter’s cultural tapestry, eventually becoming assimilated into Roman hegemony.
Simultaneously, we embark upon the marina of Milazzo, where Odysseus once faced the ordeal of shipwreck and encountered the formidable Cyclops.
Although our sojourn spared us any Cyclopean encounters, we reveled in the exploration of this captivating town, another gem within the Italian commune lineage. Our meandering led us through the impeccably preserved Norman fortress, a vestige from the 13th century, concluding with a sumptuous repast at a charming local restaurant. An appended photo chronicle awaits your perusal, capturing the sunset vista from the tower of the Norman fortress.
