Early morning, February 18th. On the starboard side, the land ahead is the British Virgin Islands (BVI), a cluster of about sixty small volcanic islands and coral atolls nestled amidst the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. The first are covered in dense forests and hills, offering breathtaking panoramic views. The second are nearly flat, with white sandy beaches and turquoise lagoons. Of these islands, only sixteen are inhabited. The rest remain wild, untouched paradise. Even on the inhabited ones, you won’t find noisy megacities, towering buildings, or crowded beaches. Instead, there is pristine white sand, coconut palms, hidden coves, and an underwater world of incredible beauty.
Formally, the BVI are British overseas territories, but not a part of the UK itself. What does this mean? If you’re on the BVI, it doesn’t mean you’re technically in the UK. The islands are governed by the UK, but they enjoy significant autonomy, electing their own parliament, which handles matters like local taxes, business, internal policies, and economics. How well does autonomy work? Well, it seems to be running smoothly. At least, the local parliament and its bureaucrats aren’t complaining. Things are going well—so well that in 2022, London nearly imposed direct rule due to corruption scandals, but the local authorities managed to buy some time and were given another chance to implement reforms. As the saying goes, business as usual.
The official currency is the US dollar. The islanders are technically British citizens but hold special passports, labeled “British Overseas Territories Citizen” (BOTC). With such a passport, they can live and work in the UK, but they have no right to vote in British elections. Not that they care—why would anyone living in this paradise want to move to foggy Albion? There’s plenty to do here.
The BVI are considered the best yachting destination in the Caribbean, thanks to calm waters, reliable winds, and short distances between islands. The picturesque coves are a true haven for divers. The waters here are rich with coral reefs and exotic sea life, as well as dozens of sunken ships, including the legendary RMS Rhone, which sank in 1867. Norman Island is said to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. There really were treasures found here! In the 17th and 18th centuries, the BVI were a popular spot for pirates, including infamous captains like Blackbeard (Edward Teach). Before the British, the Spanish used these islands as a base for their treasures plundered from South America. The local pirate legacy is still evident in the long-standing tradition of producing—and consuming—strong rum in large quantities. The entire Caribbean is famous for its distilleries, where they craft dark and potent rum. A must-try is the local cocktail made with rum, pineapple juice, coconut milk, and nutmeg, offered in bars under the promising name Painkiller.
And of course, the main allure of these islands is their tax-free status. There are no taxes on income, capital gains, inheritance, or VAT. The main source of the government’s revenue comes from company and yacht registrations (there are over 60,000 yachts registered here). Many of the islands are privately owned. For example, Necker Island belongs entirely to British businessman Richard Branson, founder of the Virgin brand. Branson bought the island in 1978, initially turning it into his private paradise, and later started renting it out for exclusive events and corporate retreats. Visitors describe it as the capital of luxury and exotica. Another island, Sunset Cay, is owned by a celebrity whose identity remains undisclosed. The BVI’s laws simplify the process of acquiring land, allowing foreign investors to own and manage property without significant legal obstacles. This unique system provides owners not only with exclusive property rights but also unlimited opportunities to create exclusive resorts, private retreats, and business hubs, making the British Virgin Islands especially attractive to the wealthy and famous.
There’s still much to explore here, but that can wait. The island of Culebra has already appeared on the horizon—it’s time to head there.
