Today, we found ourselves in a place called Cayo Pirata—Pirate Cay. According to legend, back in the 17th and 18th centuries, this is where the infamous pirates of the Caribbean hid their treasures. While no solid evidence supports the tale, it’s easy to see why it would have been an ideal hideout—calm waters, secluded coves, and a safe distance from major ports. In the 20th century, Cayo Pirata became home to a small fishing community from Culebra. Fishermen built stilt houses over the water, making a living by catching fish and lobsters. Over time, they moved to the main island, but traces of their settlement remain. There were once grand plans to turn this place into a museum, but, as often happens, the funding mysteriously ran out before the project was completed (some say local officials were quicker to build themselves vacation homes instead). All that’s left of the museum dream is a pier and a handful of seaside restaurants—one of which seemed like the perfect spot for tonight’s dinner.
As the sun set over Melones Beach, the sky burned with soft hues of pink and gold. The locals say this is the perfect place for evening snorkeling and sunset watching. Just a few meters from shore, a coral reef teems with life—tropical fish, sea urchins, and even sea turtles glide through the water. Culebra is home to rare leatherback and green sea turtles, which come here to nest. The beach itself is unusual—there’s very little sand, just fragments of coral, which, by the way, you’re not allowed to take home. The water is dotted with black sea urchins, but hunting them is strictly prohibited—they play a crucial role in maintaining the reef’s delicate balance. Fishing here is also banned, though the fishermen we saw earlier were working a different area—probably one of the channels where fishing is still allowed.
On the northwestern side of Culebra lies Playa Flamenco—undoubtedly one of the most breathtaking beaches in the world. No photo can truly capture its beauty—the dazzling white sand, the impossibly clear turquoise water, the serene, almost untouched atmosphere. On calm days, the waves are barely noticeable, as the bay is shielded by a coral reef from the ocean’s currents. It’s a shame we didn’t bring our snorkeling gear—beneath the surface, the scenery is said to be even more spectacular. Colorful fish dart among the corals, stingrays glide across the seabed, and sea turtles drift lazily past. There are also several sunken tanks left behind from the days when the U.S. Navy used this area as a military base. These remnants, now covered in graffiti and marine life, have become an unexpected underwater attraction. Fortunately, Playa Flamenco has remained blissfully free from large-scale tourism—there are no docks for cruise ships, so getting here isn’t easy. You either arrive on a small yacht, a catamaran, or, like most visitors, take a tiny plane from San Juan (Puerto Rico’s capital) or a ferry from the town of Ceiba.
A quick note about the island’s name—”Culebra” means “snake” in Spanish. But don’t worry, there are no venomous snakes here. In fact, there are no rivers or freshwater lakes either. Water is sourced from wells, collected from rain, or brought over from the mainland.
Back to Playa Flamenco—despite what you might think, its name has nothing to do with the famous dance. Instead, it comes from the flamingos that once gathered in large flocks in the nearby mangroves. These days, they are a rare sight, but their legacy remains. The beach, the surrounding mangroves, the subtropical dry forest, the coral reef, and the seagrass meadows are all part of a protected reserve. This means no high-rise hotels or massive resorts can be built here. It’s a small miracle that this paradise is still untouched by private developers and remains open to wanderers like us—for free. Knock on wood that it stays this way.
From 1901, the U.S. Navy used Culebra as a training ground, conducting artillery and aerial bombing exercises. But after years of protests by local residents, military operations finally ended in 1975. The island’s protected status was also a result of grassroots efforts. Today, more than 20% of Culebra’s land and waters are part of a nature reserve.
In reality, Culebra isn’t just one island—it’s an archipelago of 23 small islets (or “cays”) surrounding the main island. It’s a haven for nature lovers, seekers of quiet retreats, and adventurers drawn to the underwater world. This is the kind of place that deserves at least two full weeks to explore properly.
But this time, our schedule is tight. Early in the morning on February 20th, we set sail once again, charting a course for the island of Puerto Rico.
