Puerto Rico and the Island of St. John the Baptist

The day at sea went wonderfully. We received a warm welcome at the marina in Salinas, on the southern coast of the island, where the staff assisted us with docking. Here, the help of the marina crew is indispensable. Boats are lined up side by side, and with gusty winds and strong tidal currents, squeezing into a berth barely wider than the beam of your boat is a challenge that requires years of practice. Our heartfelt thanks to the team—they arrived just in time and provided the necessary assistance. In the first photo, the first mast to the right of the lamppost belongs to our Legato.

A display at the marina tells the story of the manatees—gentle sea creatures. I once had a close encounter with one while anchored in a canal south of Fort Lauderdale, Florida. The area is surrounded by vast mangrove forests, providing a safe haven for these creatures. In the early morning, they emerge for breakfast—only their small ears break the surface of the water, resembling a floating branch. But when such a giant swims by your boat, it is impossible to miss. That morning, as I was washing the deck, my phone was out of reach, and I had a freshwater hose in hand. It turned out my visitor had approached to drink! For nearly five minutes, he sipped directly from the stream, occasionally performing elegant rolls just beside the hull—a delightful, impromptu spectacle at six in the morning. It will be interesting to observe them in these waters.

With the first light of dawn, we rent a car and embark on an adventure—to another island! Our first stop is the capital of Puerto Rico, San Juan, one of the oldest cities in the New World. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493, the island was initially named Isleta de San Juan Bautista, in honour of Saint John the Baptist, whose feast day coincided with its discovery. Columbus recommended it as a military base, and fortifications were soon underway. The adjacent port and harbour were named Puerto Rico—“Rich Port”—as it became a hub for wealth flowing in from the Caribbean.

One of the first defensive structures built was Fort San Cristóbal, providing cover for the early settlers. However, the grandest project was the construction of the fortress San Felipe del Morro, commonly known as El Morro. Over two centuries, Spain’s finest military engineers expanded and reinforced the island’s defenses. Their efforts stood the test of time—El Morro withstood multiple sieges and still commands a formidable presence today. Unlike the reconstructed ruins of the Acropolis in Athens, much of El Morro remains original, its walls and inner buildings a testament to 16th- and 17th-century craftsmanship. Even modern ports rarely boast such a well-designed and robust coastal defense system.

Along the fortress walls, numerous watchtowers, or garitas, stand sentinel, each with its own history.
The distance from the fortification wall to the first street of the city is quite impressive.
In 1983, El Morro, along with other defensive structures of San Juan, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A display tells the story of the Danish attack in 1625.
The fortress played a role in both World Wars—the U.S. used it as a military observation post.
The bay in front of the main entrance to the port—this is where the major battles of the past took place.
The first lighthouse, Faro de El Morro, was built in 1846 but later destroyed during American bombardments and rebuilt in 1908.
In the 1940s, the lighthouse was modernized and gained a black-and-white design. Faro de El Morro still functions today.
During fog and storms, when visibility was poor, this signal bell was used to warn sailors, helping ships safely enter the harbor.
One of the rooms within the fortress wall was dedicated to a church.
This display compares two sentry towers built in different eras.
This garrita is from the 17th century. The sentry here would watch for English, French, or Dutch wooden sailing ships.
Anf this one is a watchtower from World War II. U.S. soldiers scanned for German submarines and other military ships.
It’s impossible to get close to the walls by ship—the artificial shoals won’t allow it.
One such tower, La Garita del Diablo, is shrouded in legend—stories tell of soldiers who mysteriously vanished while on duty there.
The fort’s walls conceal hidden passages, storerooms, and secret chambers. The thickness of the stone is astounding.
Some former entrances have been sealed as the fort was reinforced over time, layer upon layer like a nested doll.
Cementerio Santa MarĂ­a Magdalena de Pazzis.

The fortress has witnessed attacks throughout history. In 1595, an English assault led by the famed pirate Sir Francis Drake—sponsored by the English Crown—was repelled by Spanish cannons. However, in 1625, the Dutch successfully landed and plundered the city, though they failed to take El Morro. The fort even withstood American bombardment in 1898 during the Spanish-American War, which marked Spain’s loss of its global power status. Following the war, Puerto Rico became a territory of the United States.

By the fortress walls, on a cliff overlooking the ocean, lies the Santa MarĂ­a Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery, established in 1863. A local legend claims the cemetery is haunted, with underground tunnels linking it to El Morro. Some say strange voices and footsteps echo through the night. However, many believe the spirits of the departed drift into the boundless sea—a poetic reason for its seaside location. The cemetery is the resting place of many distinguished Puerto Ricans, including independence activist Pedro Albizu Campos, writer and poet JosĂ© de Diego, and composer Rafael HernĂĄndez MarĂ­n. Surrounded by ancient walls, the cemetery is adorned with statues, ornate tombstones, and a neoclassical chapel with an eye-catching red dome. The contrast of white marble against the azure sea and sky makes this place hauntingly beautiful.

Near the entrance to the city, opposite the fortress, stands a memorial honouring Puerto Rican veterans who served in major conflicts, from both World Wars to Korea and Vietnam—fighting under the American flag. Two bronze rams with the U.S. and Puerto Rican flags symbolize soldiers bravely following their banner, like a flock behind its shepherd. A towering pillar commemorates their resilience and sacrifice.

Iglesia de San JosĂ© (St. Joseph’s Church)

Near the memorial to Puerto Rican military veterans in Old San Juan stands the Iglesia de San JosĂ©. The church was founded in 1532 by Dominican monks, just 11 years after the city was established. Unlike many other New World cathedrals, it was built in the earlier Gothic style, not Baroque. Inside, rare 16th-century wall paintings have been preserved. Over time, the building passed to the Jesuits and later to the Franciscans. In the 20th century, the church deteriorated significantly, and in the 2000s, large-scale restoration work began, completed in 2021. It is one of the oldest Christian churches in the Western Hemisphere. On the church grounds is a monument to Spanish conquistador and first governor of Puerto Rico, Juan Ponce de LeĂłn, who was buried here in 1559. His remains were later moved to the city’s Cathedral. The dates inscribed—1508-1509—mark the beginning of Spanish colonization under his leadership and the founding of Caparra, the island’s first European settlement. The phrase “VolviĂł a poblarla” translates as “He returned to populate it.” Ponce de LeĂłn’s mausoleum can be found in the city’s grand cathedral, further deepening the historical tapestry of this remarkable place. He, Juan Ponce, is undoubtedly a hero. However, in order to “populate it” (the lands of the New World, and in this case, the islands of Puerto Rico), he and his comrades had to depopulate (or rather, exterminate) an estimated 100,000 to 200,000 people—some estimates suggest up to 500,000—peaceful inhabitants of the island, the TaĂ­no people. This was not difficult to accomplish. The local tribes had no cannons, rifles, or gunpowder. They had no ambitions of conquest and lived a sedentary life, cultivating cassava, sweet potatoes, corn, peppers, pineapples, and other crops. They hunted (mostly using bows and traps), fished, spoke their own language (a dialect of Arawakan), worshipped ancestral spirits, and believed in an afterlife. From 1508, when the Spanish began their active colonization of the island, the TaĂ­no population rapidly declined, primarily due to inhumane exploitation and forced labor in gold mines and plantations, as well as diseases brought by the Europeans—smallpox, measles, influenza. Additionally, they suffered significant losses in wars and brutal suppression of uprisings against the new rulers. In less than 50 years, by the early 1550s, the indigenous population of Puerto Rico had almost disappeared as a distinct ethnic group. However, TaĂ­no genes and cultural heritage have been preserved among modern Puerto Ricans to this day.

It makes one wonder: if the Taíno were such easy prey for the Spaniards, why go through the trouble of building such impregnable fortresses? What were the brave conquistadors afraid of? Primarily, they feared competition from other European powers—rival conquerors just like themselves. Secondly, they feared pirates, often hired or sponsored by elite circles of different countries to plunder their rivals. The least of their fears were the local inhabitants, who at the time were actually the main target—easy prey that adventure-seekers pursued in the New World. From them, gold could be stolen through deception, land could be seized by brutal force, and they themselves could be sent to the mines or plantations—or simply killed without consequence. To the conquerors of new lands, these people were nothing more than exotic animals.

But let’s return to the good things. Old San Juan is an open-air museum.

The stones on the pavement once served as ballast for ships arriving here.

My photos capture only a small part of the old town. I missed many details or saw them only briefly from a distance, unable to photograph or examine them closely. Clearly, a few hours are far too little to explore even this small city properly. It’s a place that truly warrants a stay of at least a few weeks.

San Juan, founded by the Spanish in 1521, became the second-oldest city in the New World after Santo Domingo on the island of Hispaniola (now the Dominican Republic) and was one of the last cities to remain under Spanish rule. Although Puerto Rico now belongs to the United States, its people maintain a unique culture, Spanish language, and incredible cuisine—be sure to try mofongo with seafood, a dish made from fried plantains. The island also has its own distinct Caribbean rhythm of life. San Juan is considered the birthplace of the reggaeton music genreand hosts the annual San SebastiĂĄn Festival—the largest street celebration in the Caribbean, featuring music, dancing, and carnival costumes. Despite its historical heritage, San Juan is also a resort city with beaches like Condado and Isla Verde, where white sand meets the towering skyscrapers of five-star hotels. The port of San Juan welcomes some of the largest cruise ships in the world, while the La Perla district (famous from the “Despacito” music video) offers the best bars and clubs, where salsa, merengue, and bachata are danced from dusk till dawn.

The day is in full swing. We are en route to the next stop on our island road trip. We took a break at a typical American plaza with fast-food chains like McDonald’s, Subway, and KFC. Surprisingly, none of the staff spoke English. At first, I was taken aback—how could this be? They are all U.S. citizens, and Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory. Don’t they learn English in school? I asked in my broken Spanish, and indeed—they don’t! Why would they? They understand each other perfectly in Spanish. English-speaking staff are only needed in hotels, restaurants, and stores in the historic city center, and even then, only for customer-facing roles. The staff does not need to know what the dear guests are talking about at the table. Wait, so they are not guests if they came from the States, are they? Well, yes, of course they are not guests, they are the masters. “AsĂ­ es el mundo,” as they say—which, means “Such is the way of the world.”